From Bulgaria with Love: Durvo Adds New Flavor to Las Vegas Culinary Scene
From Bulgaria with Love: Durvo Adds New Flavor to Las Vegas Culinary Scene
by Charles Karel Bouley
The economy for many is not doing well, no matter what numbers, polls, or politicians say: the fact is eating out or eating at home, eating in general, costs more now. This corporate greed is hiking up prices in all aspects of the food industry, especially restaurants. And thus, many have closed their doors. This is particularly true in the Vegan space, once thriving in Las Vegas, now as more restaurants offer Vegan options, exclusively vegan spots are diminishing in some ways.
Yet, Rayna and Chef Hanny (pronounced Honey), have opened an exciting new eatery on Decatur and Hacienda (5255 S. Decatur #107, Las Vegas, NV 89118 725-3020-9970) named Durvo (Bulgarian for Tree). Rayna has been in Las Vegas for over five years, and has worked in many vegan spaces; and prior she ran a restaurant in Bulgaria. Chef Hanny is in the back, creating new and unique flavors for this inconspicuous gastric haven.
The menu skews more moderate-to-fine dining and the dark wood interior complete with a bar area (liquor license in process) and elevated booth seating immerse the diners in ambiance, thus removing the “strip mall” feel and making it feel like a stand-alone destination.
Many items on the menu will be seasonal, so items are subject to change. When I went for my birthday Nov. 7 Appetizers included Quatro Taco, two barbacoa, one plantain with Mole Sauce and one mixed bean and mushroom with verde sauce taco; Spinach/Artichoke dip, a fan favorite, which is spinach, artichoke hearts, white beans served with crispy bread bites…it’s THAT dip that we’ve all known and loved for some time, done vegan. Other appetizers include the Artichoke with Saffron Aioli and avo mousse, which is whole artichoke hearts breaded and fried with a side of saffron aioli and avocado mousse. It’s pretty and quite delicious.
I was expecting the Artichoke with Saffron to be heavier, given that it’s fried and breaded, but it was delightfully light, bursting with flavor and when coupled with the Saffron Aioli it was five star.
There’s the Crispy Ocean Crab Cakes made from jackfruit and a Cilantro Ranch Salad in a fried tortilla bowl and you can add in vegan salmon filet that rivals anything caught in the wild.
Entrees range from traditional entries like pasta to a full vegan steak dinner. The Pistachio Pesto Rigatoni Pasta with Crispy Tofu was some of the best pasta in Las Vegas. Pistachio pesto butter sauce poured over rigatoni then sprinkled with parmesan, all vegan, and all beyond delicious. If you don’t want the Crispy Tofu add the salmon fillet.
They have a buffalo slaw burger which is a patty of beans and beets that’s tastier than it should be, I mean, how do you do that to beets and beans? It’s smothered in Buffalo slaw and served with either homemade chips or truffle chips and truly satisfies the burger fix.
There’s also the Pomodoro Bowtie Pasta, which is Pomodoro sauce made with fresh tomatoes, garlic, basil and cashew ricotta cheese on the top. It is a traditional taste of Italy, simple and full of garlicky goodness. If you’d like something more exotic, have the Indian Curry. It’s a unique blend of curry spices paired with coconut milk curry sauce and served with tofu cubes and white rice. Remember, curry is a generic term for five or more spices blended so the Chef has a few she’s keeping secret.
The two big meals on the menu are the Ocean Bay Filet which is marinated hearts of palm and young green jackfruit in a salty brine and you won’t know it’s not fish. It’s served with coli-mashed potatoes a treat unto themselves. And then there’s the Steak and Potatoes which is a piece of tender steak (I believe it’s a Chunk steak, one of the best products out) over garlic mashed potatoes with a ladleful of dark mushroom demi-glace. This will give you a very savory, hearty feel, reminiscent of its non-vegan namesake. It’s as close to real meat and potatoes as I want to get, and with a dish this filling and good, there’s no need to ever eat it any other way.
For my birthday dessert I had Three Layers of Love, and trust me, by the time I got to the bottom of the three tier martini-glass delight I felt all the love. The top tier is Matcha mousse, the middle is Mango ganache and the bottom is walnut ice cream. Three very unique flavors blended as one, and they work. The Mango ganache acts like it’s belonged sandwiched between walnut ice cream and matcha mousse all along.
Prices range from $15 to $27 with most appetizers and entrees below $20.
I’ll be visiting Durvo often, for the great food, service and because I want to see it thrive. Rayna and Chef Hanny have a dream to bring flavorful vegan food to the Las Vegas and they’re off to a great start.
OPTIONS: 9 Thai Kitchen at Desert Inn and Durango (8470 W Desert Inn Rd) is under new owners and now has both lunch specials AND vegan lunch specials as well as many other vegan options. I had Mongolian tofu there recently, with soup, egg roll and rice, and it was fabulous and under $15. The menu has many Vegan options and the new owner’s mom is the one in the kitchen whipping it all up! Not exclusively a vegan restaurant, it’s nice to see 9 Thai Kitchen offer more than five vegan options on their new menu.
This article appears in the winter edition of Real Vegas Magazine in the Vegan in Vegas column.
